An internal view of my RSG |
My RSG enclosure: the two electrode cables and the ground cable |
The rotating disk and the two stationary electrodes |
I have built my Rotating Spark Gap (RSG) using only basic tools, a drill and a drill stand. It is made of the following components:
An angle grinder
A new and cheap ($20) angle grinder, 10500 RPM, 220 VAC, 500 W. I
suppose it employs a so-called "universal motor".
A fiber bachelite disk
15 cm diameter, 8 mm tick, can be easily balanced with a file by
mounting it with a shaft on the drill.
2 rotating electrodes
made of 4 mm diameter tungsten sticks, 15 mm long. You can use
the angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the tungsten. Drill
to 3.9 mm holes in the bachelite disk and press-fit the 2
electrodes with a hammer.
2 fixed electrodes
made of 4 mm diameter tungsten sticks, 30 mm long: they are
mounted in two brass blocks (6 x 1.5 x 1.5 cm). The electrodes
can slide in and out a 4 mm hole and can be fixed in position by
a screw. The brass blocks are mounted on two teflon supports to
provide isolation without fusing up to about 300 C. The clearance
between fixed and rotating electrodes is 2 x 1 mm.
An aluminum/steel case
A surplus case, sized about 30 x 25 x 30 cm, with 3 mm thick
walls of aluminum and steel, contains the whole RSG and protects
me from flying tungsten "bullets". It is isolated with
noise absorption foil (from the inside) to avoid annoying
neighbors phone calls to the police.
A speed control
A triac, home-made speed control with no feedback. This means
that I have no torque control and speed changes require some
seconds to stabilize to a constant speed, but the simplicity of
the schematics (20 minutes to built it) makes it a winner.
The RSG accounts for a top break rate of 10500RPM : 60 s x 2 = 350 breaks/s.
I connect my RSG in PARALLEL to my RQ gap, after having increased the number of sections in use from 3 to 5. This way, the RQ gap works as a kind of safety gap for the bangs missed by the RSG (if any).
After running the RSG for about one hour with my Tesla Coil,
cycles of 30 s on and 30 s off, there is almost no sign of
melting or wear on the electrodes. Opening the case quickly after
operation reveals also that the brass blocks get only slightly
warm.